How to grow Apricot in Australia
Apricots are among the first fruit of summer, ripening from December into January. They suit cool and warm temperate gardens with a cold winter and a dry spring, and most varieties are self-fertile, so one tree will crop. The keys are good drainage, pruning in dry weather and protecting the fruit from birds.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Apricot in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | Not suited | Not reliable in SEQ. Apricots need more winter chill than the coast provides, and wet springs bring brown rot. Grow a low chill peach or nectarine instead. |
| Northern Rivers NSW | June to August | Marginal. Only low chill selections such as Glengarry crop here, and best in the cooler hinterland. Wet springs bring brown rot. |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | June to August | Marginal on the humid coast, where spring rain brings brown rot and chill is short. Better in western Sydney. Plant bare root Jun to Aug and choose a lower chill variety such as Glengarry or Story. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | June to August | |
| Adelaide & SA | June to August | |
| Perth & WA | June to August | |
| Tasmania | June to August | Plant bare-root Jun to Aug. Excellent chill. Pick a sheltered site, because late frost can nip early blossom inland. |
| Canberra & ACT | June to August | Excellent chill, but early blossom can be lost to spring frost in cold pockets. Choose later flowering types. |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. Needs winter chill and a cool dormant season; impossible on the tropical coast. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable. Apricot has high chill needs. Impossible in the Top End. |
Where to plant
Plant apricots in full sun with shelter from strong wind, in fertile soil that drains well. They do not tolerate wet or boggy ground. Apricots flower very early, so a sheltered spot out of frost pockets protects the blossom, and spring rain on the flowers brings brown rot.
They need a cold winter to flower well, though lower chill varieties extend the range into milder areas.
- Adelaide, Melbourne, Perth, Canberra and Hobart: good apricot country. In Canberra and inland Tasmania choose later flowering types and a sheltered site, as late frost can take early blossom.
- Sydney: marginal on the humid coast, where spring rain brings brown rot and chill is short; better in western Sydney with a lower chill variety such as Glengarry or Story.
- Northern Rivers: marginal; only low chill selections such as Glengarry crop, best in the cooler hinterland.
- South East Queensland, North Queensland and Darwin: apricots need winter chill and a cool dormant season that the subtropics and tropics do not provide.
Choosing a variety
- Moorpark is a large, juicy, old favourite that ripens in late December to early January. It is prone to dieback.
- Trevatt is yellow with a red blush and ripens in December.
- For milder areas, look for lower chill varieties such as Glengarry and Story.
- Dwarf trees suit small gardens and pots.
How to plant
- Plant bare root trees in winter while they are dormant, in full sun with room for air to move around the tree.
- If your soil is heavy, plant on a raised mound so water drains away from the roots.
- Spread the roots, keep the graft union above the soil, water in and mulch, keeping mulch away from the trunk.
- Start shaping the tree to an open vase with about four main branches.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply about once a week in hot, dry weather, around the drip line, while the fruit develops and again after harvest. Ease off once the season cools, and never let the ground stay soggy.
Feed with a fertiliser that is higher in potassium and phosphorus and low in nitrogen, either after harvest in autumn or in late winter as growth starts. Composted chicken manure, worm castings and seaweed solution all suit.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune only in warm, dry weather, never in winter. Australian advice is February or March after harvest; the RHS advises spring or summer. Both aim to keep bacterial canker and silver leaf out of fresh cuts.
- Keep an open centre with about four main branches so air moves through the tree.
- Remove dead and diseased wood and old fruiting spurs, which crop for only two or three years.
- Clean secateurs with methylated spirits before you start and after each cut into diseased wood.
- Thin heavy crops when the fruit is small, removing about one in three, or leaving the fruit 5 to 8 cm apart. The rest grow larger and branches are less likely to split.
- Net the tree before the fruit colours.
Harvesting
Apricots ripen in December and January, depending on the variety. Ripe fruit is soft, rich in colour and comes away from the tree easily. Where birds, possums or fruit fly are a problem, pick fruit just before it is fully ripe and finish ripening it indoors on trays.
Apricots do not keep long. Eat them within a few days, or dry, bottle, freeze or jam the surplus.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf variety and a pot at least 50 cm wide filled with quality potting mix. Water regularly in summer, feed lightly in spring, and net the fruit. Being self-fertile, a single potted tree can crop.
Companion planting
Low plants around an apricot should not compete hard for water or hold moisture against the trunk. Herbs and flowers that bring in bees and helpful insects are the usual choice.
Good companions
- Chives A small allium that grows around the base of the tree, with flowers bees like.
- Garlic Takes little room and grows through winter under the bare tree.
- Nasturtium A groundcover that shades the soil and feeds bees.
- Tansy Traditionally planted around fruit trees for its strong scent; keep it contained.
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut for mulch around the tree.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to apricot.
Pests and diseases
Birds and possums take more apricots than insects do, and fruit fly is a problem in Queensland, New South Wales and around Perth. Brown rot and gummosis are the main diseases.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Pecked, half-eaten fruit as it colours. Net the tree.
- Fruit fly Small sting marks on the skin and soft, rotting flesh with maggots. Pick early and bag or net the fruit.
- Possums Fruit eaten overnight and broken shoots. Net or collar the trunk.
- Earwigs Ragged holes in ripening fruit, with the insects hiding nearby by day.
- Borer Sawdust-like frass and small holes in the trunk or branches.
Diseases to watch for
- Brown rot Large brown rotting patches on fruit that become covered in grey spores, worst in wet weather. Remove mummified fruit and fallen litter, and spray copper (Bordeaux) at leaf fall and before bud swell.
- Bacterial canker Gummy oozing from swellings on branches where the bark is damaged, with dieback. Sprays do not cure it: prune in dry weather with clean tools.
- Shot hole Small round spots on leaves that drop out to leave holes, worst in wet springs.
Common questions
Do you need two apricot trees for fruit?
No. Apricots are self-fertile, so a single tree will crop, as long as bees can visit the flowers.
When should I prune an apricot tree?
Prune in warm, dry weather, never in winter. Australian advice is February or March after harvest, and the RHS suggests spring or summer. Pruning in wet or cold weather lets bacterial canker and silver leaf into the cuts.
Why is my apricot tree oozing gum?
Gum oozing from swellings on the bark is usually bacterial canker, also called gummosis. It enters through wounds such as splits in the fork or pruning cuts. Sprays will not fix it. Prune out badly affected wood in dry weather, clean your tools between cuts, and avoid damaging the bark.
Can I grow apricots in Brisbane or Sydney?
Apricots need winter chill and a dry spring. In Sydney, western suburbs and lower chill varieties such as Glengarry or Story give the best chance. Coastal South East Queensland does not suit them.
Why are my apricots rotting on the tree?
Most likely brown rot, a fungal disease that spreads in wet weather around flowering and harvest. Remove mummified fruit and fallen litter, thin the fruit so it does not touch, and spray copper at leaf fall and before bud swell in late winter.
How do I stop birds eating my apricots?
Net the tree before the fruit starts to colour, using wildlife-friendly netting with small holes. You can also pick fruit just before it is fully ripe and ripen it indoors.
Should I thin apricot fruit?
Yes, on heavy crops. When the fruit is small, twist off about one in three, or leave them 5 to 8 cm apart. The remaining fruit grows larger, and branches are less likely to split under the weight.
Sources we checked: Sustainable Gardening Australia: Growing apricots; Agriculture Victoria: Brown rot of stone fruits; Agriculture Victoria: Verticillium wilt of deciduous fruit trees; NSW DPI: Bacterial canker; RHS: Apricots.