Garden Pests and Diseases in Australia
Most garden damage in Australia comes from a short list of culprits: aphids, caterpillars, snails and slugs, fruit fly, and a handful of fungal diseases that follow the weather. Start with the symptom you can see, check what is active in your climate this month, and fix it with the mildest method that works. Every guide below covers spotting the problem early, preventing it, and a step by step plan.
What is eating my plant? Find it by symptom
Look at the damage before you reach for anything, because the same plant can have two problems at once. Each line below links to a full guide with photos and a step by step plan. If the damage looks like a pest but you cannot find the insect, the cause is usually a disease or watering, so check the wilting and spots groups too.
Holes in leaves or leaves chewed away
Check at dusk with a torch: most chewers feed at night.
- Cabbage moth: green caterpillars that chew brassica leaves to lace
- Caterpillars: loopers, armyworm, corn earworm and cluster caterpillars
- Slugs: ragged holes, feeding at night and sheltering in damp spots by day
- Snails: seedlings, leafy greens and ripening strawberries
- Flea beetle: tiny jumping beetles that leave small round holes
- Pumpkin beetle: yellow-orange beetles on pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers and melons
- 28-spotted ladybird: the one plant-eating ladybird, easy to mistake for the helpful ones
- Earwigs: night feeders on seedlings, soft fruit and flowers that also eat aphids
- Grasshoppers: chewed leaves, stems and fruit, worst after wet springs inland
- Pear and cherry slug: shiny black larvae scraping pear, cherry and plum leaves to skeletons
- Shot hole: a fungal disease that leaves round holes in stone fruit and almond leaves
Curled, puckered or distorted leaves
Look on the undersides and at the growing tips before you decide.
- Aphids: clusters on new growth, sticky honeydew and ants running up the stem
- Thrips: slender insects barely two millimetres long that rasp leaves, flowers and fruit
- Whitefly: tiny white insects that rise in a cloud when you brush the plant
- Psyllids: nymphs that curl, blister or pimple new leaves
- Spider mite: tiny sap-suckers that build up in hot, dry weather
- Leaf miner: larvae tunnelling between the upper and lower leaf surfaces
- Peach leaf curl: red, puckered leaves on peaches and nectarines in spring
- Mosaic virus: light and dark mottling with distorted growth
- Erinose mite: rusty brown felt under lychee leaves
- Tomatoes: read why tomato leaves curl
White powder, fluff or fuzzy mould
The colour and the weather help: powder in warm weather, fuzz in cool and wet.
- Powdery mildew: a white powdery film on leaves, common on cucurbits and peas
- Downy mildew: strikes in cool, wet weather on brassicas, lettuce, onions and grapes
- Mealybug: soft insects under white waxy fluff in leaf joints
- White rust: chalky white blisters under the leaves of kang kong and salsify
- Botrytis: fuzzy grey growth on flowers, fruit and stems
- Sclerotinia: cottony growth and hard black lumps at the base of lettuce
- White rot: white fluff and tiny black seeds on onion and garlic bulbs
- Chocolate spot: brown spots with grey mould on broad beans
Spots, blotches and rusty pustules
Note which leaves are marked first: old and low, or new and high.
- Leaf spot: fungal and bacterial spots on silverbeet, tomatoes, capsicum and greens
- Bacterial spot: small dark spots on tomato and capsicum leaves and fruit
- Early blight: target-ring spots on tomato and potato leaves
- Late blight: fast-spreading collapse of tomato and potato in cool, wet weather
- Rust: orange or brown pustules on beans, leeks, garlic and silverbeet
- Black spot: roses, apples, pears and grapes
- Anthracnose: dark sunken spots on beans, cucurbits, tomatoes and mangoes
- Black rot: yellow leaf edges and blackened veins on brassicas
- Melanose: rough brown specks on citrus leaves and fruit
- Citrus scab: corky scabs on lemons and twisted young leaves
Wilting, collapse or stunted growth
Check the water first. If the plant recovers by evening, the soil was dry. If it does not, look lower.
- Fusarium wilt: one-sided wilting and yellowing that ends in collapse
- Verticillium wilt: one-sided yellowing on eggplant, olives, mint and okra
- Root rot: rotted roots in wet, poorly drained soil
- Crown rot: rot at the base of strawberries, asparagus, rhubarb and artichokes
- Nematodes: galls on the roots, worst in warm, sandy soil
- Clubroot: swollen, clubbed roots on brassicas
- Borers: caterpillars and beetle larvae tunnelling into stems and trunks
- Rhizome rot: ginger and turmeric rotting in warm, waterlogged soil
- Damping off: seedlings toppling at the soil line just after they emerge
- Cutworm: seedling stems chewed through at ground level overnight
Damaged or rotting fruit
Cut a damaged fruit open. A maggot, a grub or clean rot each point somewhere different.
- Fruit fly: maggots inside tomatoes, capsicum, stone fruit and citrus; see the Fruit Fly Tracker
- Codling moth: the grub in the apple or pear
- Blossom end rot: a calcium and watering disorder, not infectious
- Brown rot: stone fruit turning into soft brown balls
- Bronze orange bug: sap-sucking shield bugs on citrus
- Stink bugs: shield bugs and spotting bugs that pierce fruit and nuts
- Birds: pecked, half-eaten ripening fruit
- Possums: fruit and new growth browsed overnight
- Flying foxes: protected fruit bats; netting and bagging protect the crop
- Rats: gnawed fruit, stripped corn and citrus
- Pod borer: caterpillars boring into beans and pods
- Pea weevil: round holes in dried and saved peas
- Tomatoes: read why tomatoes split
Sticky or black coating on leaves
The coating is honeydew from sap-suckers, and the black film is a fungus living on it. Treat the insect, not the film.
- Sooty mould: the black fungus on honeydew
- Aphids: the most common source of honeydew
- Scale: bumps under a waxy cover stuck to stems and leaves
- Mealybug: white waxy fluff in leaf joints
- Whitefly: white clouds from the undersides of leaves
Damaged stems, trunks and twigs
Look for sawdust, gum, swellings or silvering.
- Borers: sawdust and webbing at holes in the wood
- Citrus gall wasp: woody swellings on citrus twigs
- Bacterial canker: amber gum oozing from sunken cankers on cherries and apricots
- Silver leaf: a dull silvery sheen on plum and cherry leaves
- Scale: sap-suckers clustered on woody stems
- Banana weevil borer: tunnelled corms and toppling banana plants
Which pests peak when, by climate group
Pests follow temperature and rain, so a Hobart calendar and a Darwin calendar look nothing alike. We group the ten regions by the climate labels in our planting data. The months below come from our pest guides, plus the regional fruit fly season rows used by the Fruit Fly Tracker. Use them as a prompt to check your plants, not as a guarantee, because a hot spell or a wet fortnight moves everything.
Each month the Pest Calendar in the app flags the pests due next in your region, and the Fruit Fly Tracker gives the baiting season and netting advice for every region.
Cool south
- Fruit fly. Tasmania is fruit fly free, so there is no baiting season: do not bring in homegrown fruit from interstate and report suspect maggoty fruit to Biosecurity Tasmania. Melbourne's season runs October to May and starts in September. Canberra's runs October to April and also starts in September.
- Codling moth. September to March in the cooler apple and pear districts, often with two or three generations. See codling moth.
- Pear and cherry slug. A smaller peak around November and a much larger one from mid to late summer.
- Peach leaf curl and shot hole. Infection happens at bud swell in late winter and early spring, which in most southern gardens is July or August.
- Slugs, snails, downy mildew and botrytis. March to September, when it is cool and wet.
- Aphids. September to December on spring flushes, with a second peak in autumn.
- Powdery mildew. January to April. Melbourne and Hobart summers peak in January and February.
- Cabbage moth. March to May and August to October, the two main brassica seasons.
Temperate
- Fruit fly. Sydney's season runs October to May and starts in September. Perth has Mediterranean fruit fly, active October to May, so begin baiting when fruit is about one third of its final size. Adelaide is a fruit fly pest free area: routine baiting is not needed, but do not carry fruit across the border and report suspect fruit to PIRSA.
- Spider mite. December to March in hot, dry summers, which is how the tracker describes Adelaide and Perth. See spider mite.
- Thrips. September to February in warm, dry weather.
- Powdery mildew and rust. Powdery mildew from January to April, rust from January to May.
- Slugs and snails. March to September.
- Citrus pests. Bronze orange bug from September to December. Citrus gall wasp adults emerge from mid October to mid December in the south.
- Early blight. Midsummer into autumn in warm, humid weather with heavy dew, from Sydney down to Victoria.
- Aphids and cabbage moth. Aphids September to December with an autumn peak; cabbage moth March to May and August to October.
Subtropical
- Fruit fly. Active August to May, starting in late August in both regions. Our SEQ fruit fly guide covers the plan.
- Warm-season insects. Bean fly, whitefly and the 28-spotted ladybird run from September or October to April. Pumpkin beetle and flea beetle run September to February. Leaf miner runs October to April.
- Humid-summer diseases. Anthracnose from December to March, black rot of brassicas from December to April, rhizome rot of ginger and turmeric from December to March, and yellow Sigatoka of bananas from December to April.
- Citrus. Melanose and citrus scab follow wet springs and summers on the coast. Bronze orange bug runs September to December, and fruit-spotting bugs are worst in coastal Queensland and northern New South Wales.
- Bananas. Bunchy top is found all year in South East Queensland and north-east New South Wales. It is regulated, so infected plants must be destroyed and reported.
- Nematodes and pod borer. Nematodes December to April in warm, sandy soil. Pod borer is worst from late summer to autumn.
- Cabbage moth. March to May and August to October.
Tropical
- Fruit fly. Active all year and worst in the wet. Keep traps and both-sex bait going, net or bag fruit as it sets, and clear fallen fruit constantly.
- The wet. Our data treats November to March in North Queensland, and October to March in Darwin, as the hot, wet summer when most of the diseases below peak.
- Wet-season diseases. Anthracnose December to March, black rot December to April, root rot after heavy rain from December to April, rhizome rot December to March and yellow Sigatoka December to April. White rust and crown rot also peak through the wet.
- Pod borer and bean fly. Pod borer is worst from late summer to autumn from the Top End south. Bean fly is worst from September to April.
- Cabbage moth. Active most of the year in warm regions rather than in two short seasons.
- Nematodes. December to April in warm soils.
- Banana diseases. Tropical race 4 of Panama disease is regulated and must be reported. Read the North Queensland and Darwin regional pest guides.
- Flying foxes. Late spring to autumn across the north, usually when native blossom is scarce.
Control in this order
Start at the top and move down only when the step above has not been enough. The first three steps cost little and harm nothing else in the garden, and many problems are solved before you reach a spray.
Prevention and hygiene
Most problems start with how the garden is run. Space plants so air moves between them, and water at the base in the morning so leaves are dry by night. Go easy on nitrogen, because soft sappy growth is what aphids want. Inspect new seedlings before they go in. Clear fallen fruit twice a week in fruit fly season, bin diseased leaves instead of composting them, and rotate crop families so soil diseases such as clubroot and white rot do not build up. Plant alyssum, dill and yarrow nearby to bring in helpful insects. Our watering guide and mulching guide help with the watering side.
Physical barriers and traps
Netting is the single most reliable fruit fly method: cover fruit after petal drop, using mesh of about 1.6 mm that does not touch the fruit. In Victoria, household fruit netting must have a mesh of 5 mm by 5 mm or smaller to protect wildlife, which fine fruit fly mesh meets easily. Use fruit bags on small trees, cardboard collars for cutworm, copper tape and beer traps for slugs and snails, and yellow sticky traps for whitefly. Blast aphids off with a sharp jet of water, and handpick caterpillars and snails at dusk. Male-only lure traps tell you fruit fly is around but do not protect the crop. For rats, use snap traps, keep compost covered and pick up fallen fruit and nuts.
Beneficial insects
Ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitic wasps and assassin bugs do much of the work for you if you leave them alive. Swollen tan aphids that no longer move are mummies left by parasitic wasps, which means help has arrived. Before you squash or spray, check the Good Bugs vs Bad Bugs photo guide so you do not remove a helper by mistake. Spraying a broad-spectrum product while beneficials are working undoes weeks of free pest control.
Registered products, used to the label
When the first three steps are not enough, choose a product registered in Australia for your crop and your pest, and follow the label on rate, timing and the withholding period before harvest. You can look up any product on the APVMA PubCRIS database. We do not give homemade spray recipes. Home mixes of soap, oil, chilli, garlic, bicarbonate or neem have no tested rate, can scorch leaves and can kill the insects you want to keep.
- Caterpillars: Dipel (Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt) is a biological insecticide for caterpillars, labelled for many vegetable crops. Check your crop is on the label and reapply after rain.
- Scale, mealybug, mites and soft-bodied insects: pest oil such as Eco-Oil, applied on a cool day and covering every surface. Check the label for your crop.
- Fruit fly: a both-sex protein bait such as Eco-Naturalure, used with netting and clean-up. Bait alone does not save a crop.
- Slugs and snails: iron-based pellets labelled for home gardens and safe around pets and wildlife.
- Last resort: registered pyrethrum knocks down a severe outbreak fast but kills beneficial insects as well, so spray at dusk and only the affected plants.
- Neem: the registered product, Eco-Neem, is labelled for ornamentals only. Do not use neem on vegetables, herbs or fruit.
- Fungal diseases: copper or lime sulphur at bud swell is the standard home garden treatment for peach leaf curl, as long as the label lists your tree.
The one kitchen mix. For early powdery mildew on cucurbits and grapes, fresh cow's milk at one part milk to nine parts water, sprayed weekly in dry weather, is the only kitchen mix we suggest. It works best as prevention or at the first sign, and it will not clear a badly infected plant. The idea comes from Brazilian zucchini trials, and preliminary University of Adelaide vineyard trials reported in 2002 found milk comparable to standard mildew treatments. See powdery mildew.
Diseases and the weather that drives them
Most plant diseases need the right weather more than anything else, so the best treatment is often a change in how you water, space and prune. The months are from the season notes on each disease guide.
| Weather | Diseases to expect | What helps |
|---|---|---|
| Cool and wet, autumn to spring | Downy mildew and botrytis (March to September), damping off (March to May and August to October sowings), late blight (spring and autumn, 10 to 25 degrees), sclerotinia (15 to 20 degrees), white rot (late autumn to spring, in soil at 10 to 20 degrees), chocolate spot (July to October) | Space plants, water in the morning at the base, sow after the cold snap, clear debris and rotate. White rot spores survive in soil for decades, so do not replant onions or garlic in affected beds. |
| Wet late winter and spring on fruit trees | Peach leaf curl and shot hole (at bud swell), brown rot (wet, humid flowering through to harvest), bacterial canker (autumn leaf fall through winter), silver leaf (autumn to early spring) | Spray at bud swell, not after the buds open. Prune stone fruit in summer when cuts heal quickly, and in dry weather. |
| Warm and humid, summer to autumn | Powdery mildew (January to April), rust (January to May), leaf spot (December to May), bacterial spot (December to March), anthracnose (December to March), early blight (midsummer into autumn), black rot (December to April) | Pick off the worst leaves at the first sign, improve airflow, keep foliage dry, and clear infected crop debris at season end. Choose resistant varieties where they exist. |
| Heavy summer rain and waterlogged soil | Root rot (December to April), crown rot (late spring to autumn), rhizome rot (December to March), yellow Sigatoka (December to April) | Improve drainage, build raised beds, avoid planting into soil that stays wet, and raise beds for ginger and turmeric so storm water drains away. |
| Hot dry spells and swings in watering | Blossom end rot (December to February), fusarium wilt (December to March), verticillium wilt (mild spring to early summer and again in autumn) | Water evenly and mulch. Rotate crop families, because wilt fungi stay in the soil for years. |
| Whenever sap-suckers are active | Mosaic virus (September to April, spread by aphids), sooty mould (October to April, living on honeydew) | Deal with the insects and the disease follows. Remove virus-affected plants rather than trying to save them. |
Common problems by crop
These are the pests and diseases our plant library links to each crop. Open the crop page for its planting window in your region.
Every pest and disease guide
All 71 guides, listed by how many plants in our library each one affects.
Pests
Diseases & disorders
Keep going
Find your regional guides at South East Queensland, Northern Rivers, Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Tasmania, Canberra, North Queensland, Darwin.
Common questions
What is eating my plant?
Look at the damage. Ragged holes with silvery trails mean slugs or snails, lace-like leaves with green caterpillars mean cabbage moth, curled leaves with sticky honeydew mean aphids, and a white powdery film means powdery mildew. Use the symptom finder on this page to narrow it down.
What should I spray on my vegetables for pests?
Try hand removal, netting, traps and beneficial insects first. If you do need a spray, use a product registered in Australia for your crop and pest and follow the label, for example Dipel for caterpillars. We do not give homemade spray recipes.
Is neem oil safe to use on vegetables?
The registered neem product, Eco-Neem, is labelled for ornamental plants only, so do not use neem on vegetables, herbs or fruit. Pick a product whose label lists your crop and pest.
Does milk spray work on powdery mildew?
It can help at the first sign of the disease. Fresh cow's milk at one part milk to nine parts water, sprayed weekly in dry weather, is the only kitchen mix we suggest. It works better as prevention than as a cure.
When is fruit fly worst in Australia?
It depends on your region. In South East Queensland it is active from August to May, in Melbourne from October to May, and in North Queensland and Darwin it is active all year and worst in the wet. Tasmania is fruit fly free and Adelaide is a pest free area. See the Fruit Fly Tracker for your region.
Sources we checked: the season and control notes on each pest and disease guide (NSW DPI, Agriculture Victoria and Queensland Government pages are cited there), the regional rows behind the Fruit Fly Tracker, the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority PubCRIS register for product registrations, and ScienceDaily's 2002 report on University of Adelaide milk spray trials. Always read the product label before use.