How to grow Cherry in Australia
Sweet cherries are the prize fruit of cold-winter gardens, ripening from late November into January. They need more winter chill than almost any other fruit tree, so they suit Tasmania, Canberra, the tablelands and the hills behind the southern cities. Choose a self-fertile variety for a single tree, net against birds and keep rain off ripening fruit if you can.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Cherry in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | Not suited | Not viable in SEQ. Cherries need a long cold winter, hundreds of chill hours, that the coast never gets. Grow a low chill peach or nectarine instead. |
| Northern Rivers NSW | Not suited | Not reliable. Sweet cherries need 700 or more chill hours, which even the Kyogle and Lismore hinterland never gets. Grow a low chill peach or plum instead. |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | Not suited | Not reliable in Sydney. Sweet cherries need 700 or more chill hours and dislike humidity; Bilpin and Orange are the nearest cherry districts. Low chill Minnie Royal and Royal Lee are a gamble even in the coldest western gardens. Grow a plum or a low chill peach instead. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | June to August | |
| Adelaide & SA | June to August | Plant bare root trees Jun to Aug. Cherries need a cold winter, so they are a crop for the Adelaide Hills and the cooler south east; on the plains choose a low chill variety and expect light crops. |
| Perth & WA | June to August | Plant bare root trees Jun to Aug in the Hills and the south west, where winters are cold enough. On the coastal plain only low chill varieties set fruit, and crops are light. |
| Tasmania | June to August | Plant bare-root Jun to Aug. Tasmania grows the best cherries in Australia, thanks to deep chill and clean ripening. |
| Canberra & ACT | June to August | Excellent. Canberra chill suits all sweet and sour cherries. Plant bare root in winter; net against birds. |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. Cherries are the highest chill stone fruit; impossible in the tropics. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable. Cherry has the highest chill need of all stone fruit. Impossible in the tropics. |
Where to plant
Cherries need full sun and deep, very well-drained soil; they do not tolerate wet feet. Above all they need a long, cold winter: estimates range from about 700 to more than 800 chill hours for most sweet cherries, depending on how chill is measured, and low chill varieties need less. They also dislike humid summers, and rain on ripening fruit makes it split.
Plant them where you can net the whole tree, as birds strip a crop quickly.
- Hobart: Tasmania grows some of the best cherries in Australia, with deep chill and clean ripening.
- Canberra: excellent; the chill suits all sweet and sour cherries.
- Adelaide: a crop for the Adelaide Hills and the cooler south east; on the plains choose a low chill variety and expect light crops.
- Perth: the Hills and the south west have enough chill; on the coastal plain only low chill varieties set fruit, and crops are light.
- Melbourne: the cooler eastern and hills suburbs suit cherries best.
- Sydney, South East Queensland, the Northern Rivers and the tropics: not reliable, as there is too little chill and too much humidity. Bilpin and Orange are the nearest cherry districts to Sydney.
Choosing a variety
- Stella is self-fertile, with large, dark red, heart-shaped fruit, and pollinates most other cherries.
- Lapin is a self-fertile, large, dark red, sweet cherry.
- Sunburst is self-fertile with very large red fruit.
- Self-fertile varieties crop alone, but even they crop better with a second variety nearby.
- Low chill varieties such as Minnie Royal and Royal Lee are sold for milder areas, but they remain a gamble in warm gardens.
How to plant
- Plant bare root trees in winter while they are dormant.
- Dig a hole wider than the roots; on heavy soil plant on a mound so water drains away from the roots.
- Spread the roots, keep the graft union above the soil, water in and mulch, keeping the mulch off the trunk.
- Begin shaping the tree to an open vase or a central leader, keeping it low enough to net.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply and regularly from flowering while the fruit swells, then keep watering steady as it ripens. A sudden soaking, from heavy watering or rain, on ripening fruit makes it split, so avoid big changes in soil moisture close to harvest.
Feed lightly with compost or a balanced fertiliser in late winter or early spring. Too much nitrogen gives soft growth and more disease.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune in dry weather in late summer after harvest, never in wet winter weather, to keep silver leaf and bacterial canker out of the cuts.
- Keep the tree small enough to net. Dwarfing rootstocks help.
- Net the tree well before the fruit colours.
- In wet districts, a cover over a small tree keeps rain off ripening fruit and reduces splitting.
Harvesting
Cherries ripen from late November into January, and into early February in Tasmania. Pick them when they are fully coloured and sweet, as they do not ripen further once picked. Pick with the stalk attached, by the stalk rather than the fruit.
Cherries keep a few days to a week in the fridge. Freeze, bottle or make jam from any surplus.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf, self-fertile tree and a pot at least 50 cm wide with a quality potting mix. Water regularly and evenly, feed lightly in spring and net the fruit. A potted tree still needs a cold winter to crop.
Companion planting
Low plants under a cherry should not compete hard for water. Flowers that bring in bees at blossom time help with pollination.
Good companions
- Nasturtium A groundcover that shades the soil and feeds bees.
- Chives A small herb that grows under the canopy, with flowers bees like.
- Garlic Takes little room and grows through winter under the bare tree.
- Marigold Bright flowers that draw hoverflies and other helpful insects.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to cherry.
- Walnut A large tree that shades and competes with cherries, and is said to release a compound from its roots and leaves that harms some plants.
- Potato Potatoes carry verticillium wilt; Tasmanian advice is not to plant cherries where potatoes or tomatoes grew in the past 10 years.
- Tomato Tomatoes also carry verticillium wilt, which attacks cherry trees.
Pests and diseases
Birds are the biggest threat to a home cherry crop. Fruit fly is a problem in fruit fly areas, and pear and cherry slug strips leaves in spring.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Fruit pecked or stripped as it colours. Net the whole tree.
- Cherry slug Small, shiny, black, slug-like larvae about 1 cm long that skeletonise the upper leaf surface in spring and summer.
- Fruit fly Sting marks and soft fruit with maggots inside, in fruit fly areas.
- Aphids Black aphids clustered on curled new shoots in spring.
Diseases to watch for
- Brown rot Blossom and ripening fruit turn brown and rot, covered in grey spores, in wet weather.
- Bacterial canker Gum oozing from sunken patches on branches and trunk, with dieback. Prune only in dry weather.
- Silver leaf Leaves take on a silvery sheen and branches die back. Enters through pruning cuts made in wet weather.
Common questions
Can I grow cherries in Sydney or Brisbane?
Not reliably. Sweet cherries need roughly 700 to 800 or more hours of winter chill and dislike humid summers. Low chill varieties such as Minnie Royal and Royal Lee are a gamble even in the coldest western Sydney gardens. Bilpin and Orange are the nearest cherry districts.
Do I need two cherry trees?
Not if you choose a self-fertile variety such as Stella, Lapin or Sunburst. Even these crop better with another variety nearby, and Stella pollinates most other cherries.
Why are my cherries splitting?
Rain or a sudden heavy watering on ripening fruit. The fruit absorbs water and the skin bursts. Keep watering steady close to harvest and, on a small tree, use a cover to keep rain off.
When should I prune a cherry tree?
In dry weather in late summer, after harvest. Pruning in wet winter weather lets silver leaf and bacterial canker into the cuts.
How long does a cherry tree take to fruit?
Usually about five years after planting a grafted tree, with crops building after that.
What is eating my cherry leaves?
If the leaves are skeletonised, with small shiny black slug-like larvae on top, it is pear and cherry slug, the larva of a sawfly. Light attacks can be hosed or wiped off; heavy attacks weaken the tree.
How do I stop birds eating my cherries?
Net the whole tree, using wildlife-friendly netting, before the fruit starts to colour. Keeping the tree small makes this much easier.
Sources we checked: Tas NRE: Cherry growing in Tasmania fact sheet; Sustainable Gardening Australia: Growing cherries; Gardening Australia: The Vegie Patch, pear and cherry slug; ABC Organic Gardener: Cherries and chill hours.
